text by Brad Fenson map by Robert Biron Have It All (part 10) WESTERN NEWFOUNDLAND When was the last time your kids saw a real live caribou (without Marlin Perkins’ voice in the background, that is)? You and your family might want to consider that astonishing void when it’s time to plan the next big getaway. You should also ask yourself when you last watched a whale’s tail break the water against a backdrop of icebergs, or when you last really and truly felt like a Viking. You might also want to consider the fact that, last year, a local guide named Terry Byrne caught a 50-pound Atlantic salmon on the Lower Humber River. Think about that. Then get out the maps, spread them all over the living room, and plan to spend a few weeks in western Newfoundland. THE HOT SPOTS ANGLING ADVICE 64 Cloud River: Atlantic salmon 65 Codroy, Crabbes, Barachois and Harrys Rivers (along the Trans-Canada Highway between Channel-Port aux Basques and Corner Brook): Atlantic salmon, brook trout 66 Deer Arm Brook and Lomond and Trout Rivers (Gros Morne National Park): Atlantic salmon, brook trout 67 Grand Lake (north of Deer Lake): Brook trout, landlocked Atlantic salmon 68 Lower Humber River (below Deer Lake): Atlantic salmon, trout 69 Portland Creek: Atlantic salmon, brook and sea-run trout 70 River of Ponds: Arctic char, Atlantic salmon, brook and rainbow trout 71 Salmon River: Arctic char, Atlantic salmon, brook trout 72 Ten Mile Lake (Northern Peninsula): Brook trout • Cloud River Outfitters, (709) 457-2700 • Guide Ray Broughton (for Grand Lake), (709) 635-3628 • Guide Dean Genge (for Ten Mile Lake), (709) 456-2866 • Guides Ken and Cheryl Huxter (for the Lower Humber River), (709) 634-4999 • Guides Dan and Vera Hynes (for Portland Creek), (709) 898-2445 • Tuckamore Wilderness Lodge (for Salmon River), (709) 865-6361 BEYOND FISHING • Birding, camping, hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, picnicking, swimming, wildlife watching: Gros Morne National Park, (709) 458-2417/2066; JT Cheeseman Provincial Park, 1-800-563-6353; Codroy Valley Provincial Park, (709) 729-2424; Blow Me Down Provincial Park, (709) 681-2430; Sandbanks Provincial Park, (709) 729-2429 • Golfing: St. Andrews Na Creige (St. Andrews), (709) 955-3322; Harmon Seaside Links (Stephenville), (709) 643-4322; Blomidon Golf & Country Club (Corner Brook), (709) 634-2523; Humber River Golf Club (Deer Lake), (709) 635-5955; A-Gem Golf Course (Cormack), (709) 635-7080 • Tours: Where-Ya-Wannabe Lodge Art Adventure Tours, (709) 634-8735; Gros Morne Adventures, (709) 458-2722; Nordic Adventures, (709) 623-2148/2137 • Viking history: L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site, (709) 623-2608 or 458-2417 (off-season); Norstead—A Real Life Saga, (709) 454-8888 or 623-2828 GOINGS ON • Gros Morne Theatre Festival (Cow Head): June to December, 1-877-243-2899; LEARN MORE • Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism, 1-800-563-6353 GETTING THERE By car you can reach Channel-Port aux Basques at the southern tip of western Newfoundland via ferry from North Sydney, Nova Scotia (1-800-341-7981). A ferry also runs from Blanc-Sabon at the Quebec-Labrador border to St. Barbe near the top of the region (1-800-563-6353). As for flying, regional connections are available from St. John’s. 1 - HAINES JUNCTION, Yukon Territory 2 - BAMFIELD, B.C. 3 - KANANASKIS COUNTRY, Alberta 4 - LAST MOUNTAIN LAKE, Saskatchewan 5 - WHITESHELL PROVINCIAL PARK, Manitoba 6 - THUNDER BAY, Ontario 7 - LAKE NIPISSING, Ontario 8 - PAPINEAU REGION, Quebec 9 - ANNE'S LAND, P.E.I. 10 - WESTERN NEWFOUNDLAND