text by Brad Fenson map by Robert Biron Have It All (part 2) BAMFIELD, British Columbia Cutting a jagged tear deep into the mountainous west coast of Vancouver Island, Alberni Inlet extends some 50 kilometres inland from the Pacific Ocean’s pounding surf to its head at Port Alberni. Surrounded by breathtaking mountain vistas, the long, wide fjord is dotted with literally hundreds of islands and fed by several brawling mountain rivers. Yet the beauty of this waterway is largely overlooked by tourists aiming headlong to Tofino, who barely notice the fork in the road at Port Alberni that leads to Bamfield. For those in the know, however, this quaint seaside village of 300 is the perfect base for exceptional saltwater angling, ocean kayaking, diving, wildlife watching and hiking through the rain forests of Pacific Rim National Park—all prime ingredients for an adventure-filled family vacation. THE HOT SPOTS ANGLING ADVICE 7 Bamfield Harbour’s mouth (especially Aguilar and Whittlestone Points, and all the points up to Cape Beale): Summer chinook salmon 8 Broken Islands: Chinook and coho salmon (Swale Rock, Cree Island); early season coho salmon (Austin and Effingham Islands) 9 Cape Beale (along the kelp bed): Summer chinook salmon 10 Diplock Island (north side): Late-summer chinook salmon 11 Edward King Island (west and south sides): Summer chinook salmon 12 Kirby Point (off the north side of Diana Island): Chinook, coho and sockeye salmon 13 La Perouse Bank: Chinook and coho salmon (late July, August); halibut (June) 14 Lowden, Folger and Trevor Channels: Early season halibut 15 Ohiaht Islet: Coho salmon 16 Sandford Island (west and south sides): Late-summer chinook salmon 17Seabird Rock: Ling cod, rockfish 18 South Bank: Chinook, coho and sockeye salmon, halibut GETTING THERE Most travellers take the ferry (1-888-223-3779) from Vancouver to Nanaimo, then follow Highway 19 to Parksville, where Highway 4 leads to Port Alberni. From there, it’s 82 kilometres to Bamfield. The airports in Vancouver and Victoria offer connections to Nanaimo and Port Alberni. • Bamfield Lodge and Cottages, (250) 728-3419 • Coastline Charters, (250) 728-3217 • Eagle Nook Ocean Wilderness Resort, 1-800-760-2777 • Haggard’s Cove Resort, (250) 723-8457 • Harrison’s Cove Lodge, (250) 656-9500/8009 • Imperial Eagle Lodge & Charters, (250) 728-3430 • Kelly’s Sportfishing, 1-877-544-8870 • McKay Bay Lodge, (250) 728-3323 • Mills Landing Cottages & Charters, (250) 728-2300 • Seabeam Fishing Resort/Campground, (250) 728-3286 • Shahowis Resort, (250) 728-2357 • Tyee Resort & Fishing Lodge, 1-888-493-8933 BEYOND FISHING • Diving: Broken Island Adventures, 1-888-728-6200; Kildonan Cannery Lodge, 1-800-336-3155; Rendezvous Dive Ventures, (250) 720-9306 • Golfing: Alberni Golf Club, (250) 723-7111; Pleasant Valley Executive Golf Course, (250) 724-5333 • Hiking: Bamfield Hiking Tours, 1-888-728-3154; The West Coast Trail (Parks Canada), (250) 726-7721 • Kayaking: Bamfield Kayak Centre, 1-877-728-3535; Barkley Sound Kayak Centre, (403) 678-4102; Broken Island Adventures, 1-888-728-6200; Discovery Expeditions, 1-888-756-0099; Lady Rose Marine Services, 1-800-663-7192; Pacific Rim Paddling Company, (250) 384-6103 • Museums: Alberni Valley Museum, Alberni Pacific Railway and McLean Mill National Historic Site, (250) 723-1376 • Whale watching: Broken Island Adventures, 1-888-728-6200; McKay Bay Lodge, (250) 728-3323 GOINGS ON • Bamfield Arts Festival: July, (250) 728-2090 • Bamfield Fire Daze: July and August, (250) 728-3006 • Bamfield Kayak Festival: late September, (250) 728-3006 LEARN MORE • Alberni Valley Chamber of Commerce, 1-866-576-3662; • Bamfield Chamber of Commerce, (250) 728-3006; • Pacific Rim Tourism Association, 1-866-725-7529; 1 - HAINES JUNCTION, Yukon Territory 2 - BAMFIELD, B.C. 3 - KANANASKIS COUNTRY, Alberta 4 - LAST MOUNTAIN LAKE, Saskatchewan 5 - WHITESHELL PROVINCIAL PARK, Manitoba 6 - THUNDER BAY, Ontario 7 - LAKE NIPISSING, Ontario 8 - PAPINEAU REGION, Quebec 9 - ANNE'S LAND, P.E.I. 10 - WESTERN NEWFOUNDLAND