How to catch your first bonefish on the fly (and on a budget)

Xcalak Track

To reach Xcalak, my friend Phil Shook and I flew to Cancun, rented a car and drove five hours south on well-maintained roads. In Xcalak, we stayed at the lovely beachfront Hotel Tierra Maya (above). The hotel caters to anglers and divers, who come for the spectacular Banco Chinchorro atoll, and owner Eduardo Zapata offered us a very attractive food-and-fishing package. By booking directly through Eduardo, and driving ourselves to Xcalak, Phil and I reckoned that we saved at least one-third of the cost, compared to using a travel comnpay. But for a less DIY trip, the Costa Maya also has several full-service fishing lodges offering airport pickup. Though the region is remote, it’s very safe and welcoming to visitors, and most airport and travel staff speak English (as did both Eduardo, and our guide Alejandro).